Normandy is a lovely place. It could be a bicycling delight. It boasts the sea, green verdant land, beautiful country roads and historic buildings. Rustic farms, villages, and sincere churches are all about.
And the people here, as all French do, understand the table. If simple is best, then let us start with the humble sandwich. We stopped in a little place for a beer and a sandwich and the bartender took our order, as we stumbled through our best French in tourist fashion, and then immediately ran out only to appear minutes later with fresh bread from the bakery. Here in America, we judge our sandwiches by the huge size or plethora of toppings. These sandwiches were simple bread with ham and the best butter imaginable. We ate with delight, a bite of sandwich, a sip of beer, and a bit of chat.
There are apples here, this place is famous for them. So for dinner we eschewed champagne for the local sparkling cider aperitif. Delightful and appropriate. A fine way to celebrate the end of a fine day. And of course do not forget the Camembert cheese, on a salad melted over small pieces of toast, tres bien ( don’t fear, we are near the end of my French now ).
During our visit, we ate four dinners, at two restaurants, each excelled and was worthy of a second dinner. In the picture above, the hotel looks over the sea. And the seafood is fresh and delicious. Here are some more samples of the fare at the hotel. And as for dessert, always spelled with a double s to differentiate it from a desert, well words fail me…
My father had secrets, forged while a young man in a faraway place. They consumed him the rest of his life, while he always smiled and was generous and cheerful, he was distant and never forged close bonds. I never understood until I visited Normandy, that lush verdant place where the land met the sea and so many young men came never to return.
Even now the farms and paddocks show a rural flavor, and the night there is pitch black. The single lane roads were gobbled up by our Defender, as we gamely navigated to our B&B. Our hosts Tony and Pat were gracious and friendly, and we took two superb tours with Tony where he showed us the stories of the brave young men who landed there to stop the tide of evil that threatened the free world.
We saw the fortifications ordered by Rommel that are still strong and secure and cliffs that only Rangers could conquer. But it hit me hard at two cemeteries reading comments left by old men from both sides who needed to confess the horror.
My father boarded a Higgens boat, little more than a plywood tub with a swinging front door and with forty other men dared the shells, and mines and bullets as they neared the shore. He was the only one who survived. His best friend, drowned. Dad somehow swam to shore in water so full of blood that the waves crested with pink foam. There was no cover on the shore. The bombers who had bombed the night before to create fox holes had dropped the bombs three miles inland. The beach held only death and horror.
Three things stand out. In a little village church they setup a field hospital using the pews as beds. Still 68 years later, you can see the bloodstains that mark this place of worship.
In the fine US cemetery there is a section where an old sailor recalls the Marines climbing down the rope mesh to board the tiny Higgens boats as they bobbed in the rough seas. He recalls how the men cursed and wept as they descended the ladders to Hell.
And the last was in the German cemetery where a machine gunner wrote that the Germans had fired and killed and pushed them back into the sea again and again, but still they kept landing.
Yes, my father had secrets, he was only 19.